May in Seoul Part 1

My Korean Language teacher said that May is the queen of the year, in terms of May in Korea. Flowers are blooming, the weather is nice, and the nature is just in its most beautiful appearance on May. And the city has been having many festivals and events. One of the first attraction was Jongmyo Daeje, the hundreds years old of a ritual. During the Joseon Dynasty, the ritual was held once a year where the King prayed for the ancestors in Jongmyo Shrine. The Joseon dynasty might be over (oh tragic history of Korea) long ago, but the government revived the ritual again…I think mostly for tourism. Now it’s held every first Saturday of May every year. I went there with my Korean friends.

The preparation started in Gyeongbokgung Palace at around 11 am and from here they would go on a royal parade to Jongmyo Shrine. It took probably 40-60 minutes to move from Gwanghwamun area to Jongno area.

That kid was the actor for Crown Prince.

The strong grandfathers.

The ritual was held in both of 2 buildings in Jongmo shrine complex and lasted from 1 pm to 6 pm. It was so burning hot that day and I forgot to bring my umbrella.

We only stayed until the first ritual ended at around 3pm.

Kim Boram and I in Gyeongbokgung with the royal court actors.

Boram took this picture of us. The orange Jaehyeon really looked like an orange. And we met Ratih and her friend on our way to Jongmyo.

 

In Search of a Comfy Place to Live At

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There’s no place like home, that’s true. But when situation requires you to be miles away from home, you yourself have to find a new shelter to live at…as close the feeling of at home as you can. At least that’s what i feel.

I used to go camping for days up in the mountain or do volunteer works to a very remote area where toilet might be just an enclosed carton cubical with a hole on the ground to throw our poo. And my hobby is backpacking which cheap accommodation is the only option. But living in a temporary hostel/shelter is completely different from living in permanent place. In those temporary place, they’re just a place to take a rest at night and take a shower at for a few days or the longest is a month. But in permanent one,  where i’m gonna be away from home for likely two years, I dwell there. So when the place fails to accomodate my very basic needs, for me it fails its function as a permanent dwelling.

The reason why i’m bringing up this topic is of course because i’ve been struggling with my current place. The rent is cheap, probably the cheapest in entire Seoul with only 160 thousands won per month, but there is a big BUT.

You know what are the three basic designs an architecture student must do over and over again until she/he is sick of (if not mastering them)? The three basic designs that when a fresh grad starts working in an architecture firm he/she will handle for the whole probation period and won’t go up the next design level until the supervisor senior architect give an “okay”? The three basic designs that seem to be insignificantly small but surprisingly very complicated that when those three fails the whole design will fail and the worst case scenario may cost people’s lives. They are the design for bathroom/toilet (the wet zone), kitchen (the fire zone) and the stairs. And in my opinion, my current place fails me on these basic designs except for the stairs.

Part of me think that i’m just being a spoil kid by keep failing to feel comfortable living in there. But this bathroom problems is killing me. I don’t know who the architect was, but placing a “free plan”  shower room (just rows of showers without any cubical!! it’s okay for a spa, but not for a dwelling, please..) in the basement while the bedrooms on the 3rd and 4th floor is not a wise design. What we have on each of the 3rd and 4th floor is a toilet with washbasins and a shower outside the three cubicals, so whenever someone is taking a shower she’s taking over the whole cubicals because she has to lock the door. I mean, who designed this place?? Even my mother knows the importance of separating a shower area and a toilet area in a small bathroom, and this architect didn’t know it for a public housing?? And he expected people from 3rd to 4th floor to go down the stairs to take a shower in that vulgar shower room?? What architecture school did you go to, dear Mr./Mrs. architect?? Okay, maybe the landlord designed the building and he never went to architecture school. Hey, my father never went to any universities but he knows very well how to make a proper simple housing! He’s been also in this business for years, so growing up witnessing how my father tries to give proper dwellings for other people as a business make me familiar with this kind of thing. What matter in any accommodation or shelter or a house or an apartment or you-name-it-in-any-language is how the place and all its spaces accommodate at least the users’ very basic needs.

Back to my issue, aside from the lousy bathroom design, we actually could just lock the door. But there is this crazy old bitch -maybe more than one- who never wanted anyone to lock the door. They will bang on the door whenever there’s someone locking the door because she’s taking a shower. And the crazy woman will keep banging on the locked door and screaming in a broken English “DON’T LOCK THE DOOR!” even if it’s almost 12 at night. If only I never go to any university and get excellent education, I will probably shout at her face and say: “DON’T YOU EVER HEARD OF THE WORD ‘WAIT’ IF NOT ‘QUEUE’, BITCH?!”

Sorry, for my language, but saying bad things for once is tolerable, right? I’m only human anyway.

They actually have their argument: “It doesn’t make sense that someone who just wants to wash their face or brush their teeth or pee or poo has to wait for 10 to 15 minutes because someone is in the bathroom taking shower.” Well, there’s also an argument for this argument: “Well, there are still many toilets in each of the four level of floors downstairs if you are that urgent. And blame it on the architect if not the landlord for no-cubical shower and inefficient shower room downstairs.” And those crazy people think the best and cheapest solution to solve the problem is to take away the bathroom’s door handle. Oh my dear God, how could such primitive people still alive in this 21s century of a modern developed country, the Republic of Korea?

Too bad I don’t have enough energy left to write about the kitchen.

So anyhow, this problem is leaving me no option but to move out. But the problem is now I have to spend almost twice the price to get a better place to live at. Searching for a good goshiwon for a price below 300 thousand won is almost impossible around this Seoul CBD area. And I hate the fact that Dongguk Uni dorm is run by another private company so the rent is around 3 times of other university’s dorms.

Spending almost twice the price for accommodation means as much cut for meals. But I’m not sure if I really can do that..that’s the next problem. Oh, I’m so bad with money.

But a good living place will bring a good live and good foods will also bring a good life. So we must have good amount of money to have a good life. Haha. :D I hate this. Oh-this-is-a-never-ending-love-hate-of-money.

The Parade of Flowers

The weather has been nice here in Seoul. Averagely sunny days have 16 up to 21 degree celcius and nights are not very chill either. So people tend to sit outside more, have a picnic, or just enjoy the cherry blossoms parade…everywhere. Dongguk university has so many cherry blossoms tree, so I don’t really need to go far to enjoy the beautiful scenery. I never really fond of flowers, but spring is when the nature shows up its colors, and most of them are thanks to flowers.

At Namsan Hanok Village

At Gyeongbokgung Palace

At Namsan Park from Phil-dong street — morning

At Namsan Park from Dongguk uni –late afternoon

At Dongguk University

Local or foreigner, both couldn’t resist the temptation of taking pictures with the beautiful parade of flowers.

And neither could I :) at Gyeongbokgung Palace

 

 

Spring Is…

Spring is when the sun show itself up quite often on the sky and it warms up the earth during the day in a nice way, while the breeze still brings the chill, and trees start to show their colors again.

As an equatorial girl, I never really understand why the 4-seasonal-countries people picture spring as a romantic season. Now I think I get a little hint by experiencing it myself here. I never really fond of flowers nor really good with colors, but after all the barren winter it feels nice to see the nature find itself cheers up again with leaves, petals, and colorful flowers.

The sun has also been nice, though some windy days still beat up the sunlight with its freezing breeze.

This picture was taken on one of the warm days at university. I think it was around 21C. This is one of my favorite spots in my department. It’s actually a stairway landing between the 5th and 6th floor of Wonheung Building (Engineering Faculty). It has a huge floor to ceiling glass curtain wall that allows people to have this beautiful scenery towards the Namsan/Seoul Tower. The landing was wide enough to have some comfy chairs, a table and a coffee machine.

Few days ago, they’re still petals.

But now, they start to bloom…

 

 

When Leisure Doesn’t Really Cost Anything -Part 2

After Tuesday, since I started my first semester in Dongguk Uni. there’s one more day I’m not excited about: Thursday. It’s the day of Architecture Design class where the professor doesn’t speak English.

After the class today I decided to visit the biggest bookstore in Korea, Kyobo Bookstore, in the underground of Gwanghwamun area (Subway line 5 exit 4). My friend asked me why I was  going there. I said for leisure and she just made that look –the “who’s going to bookstore for leisure” look — Well, I am. Books are always soothing. And in books I find peace.

Kyobo bookstore is huge. The foreign language collection was awesome. And the best thing about this huge bookstore is they allow you to read there and even give some reading spots behind the shelves. So I explore almost all categories of the foreign language books and skimming many books. From The History of Korea for Non-Korean to some novels, and found an interesting way of writing in Haruki Murakami’s novels. For a break, I looked around the book store, exploring the stationary sections, the exclusive architecture and design corner, reading some local magazines about fashion and entertainment industry (haha), and music store. Too bad taking pictures is very unlikely since there’re so many signs of “no camera”.

Then I decided to take one novel by Haruki Murakami after a round trip and found a comfortable reading bench. This writer may have a Japanese name, but I think he’s definitely an American. He writes like an American writer, and he has an interesting way of writing and story telling.

As you can see the title, this book really tells about how Haruki Murakami loves for run. He said running has many similarities with writing a novel. It’s a very interesting to find someone was writing about running in such an interesting way. I made a good choice for the quick reading. Then I came to this page where there’s a line: “I’m the type of person who doesn’t find it painful to be alone.” Haha, felt like reading my own line. But on the next page, I was soon disappointed because he said he was married young, at the age of 22. All of a sudden, his lovely writing about solitude evaporated to the air for me.

I finished the first chapter and checked on my watch. It was 15 to 5pm. I hate subway in Seoul’s rush hour, so I just left right away. And on my way back, I just realized the vendor I walked pass earlier was actually selling pirate dvd. I noticed Gone with the Wind. 2,000 won for a dvd everyone! Indonesian pirate dvds’ price beat the whole world, I guess. Only around 0.6USD , hahh!

It’s actually cost me the subway fare, but since it’s worth it, I don’t think I have to count it.

When Leisure Doesn’t Really Cost Anything – Part 1

I’ve been trying to shrug away my frustration facing this cultural shock in my early months in Korea. As a solitude lover, I finally realized that I stay a bit way too often in my room, especially when I have no class. (but it wasn’t completely my mistake, Korean weather has been crazy, really). So last Sunday I decided to have a late afternoon walk in that warm sunny day.

I was supposed to just go to Dunkin’ Donuts and grabbed some doughnuts or waffles, but seeing Namsan Hanok Village looked excited with many tourists, I spontaneously decided to give a visit  there. Well, this is one of the best things living in the heart of Seoul, tourist destination is just around the corner :)

I hate it that I didn’t bring my camera, but thankfully I always kept my samsung pmp with me. So here some pictures I captured there.

The tourists

The gold fishes

The plaza and Namsan/ Seoul Tower in the background.

The big beautiful pond.

The crafts.

Hanok Village is an area where there are Korean traditional houses from Jeoson dynasty. I didn’t explore all houses because it would take me quite a long time, so I just visited this one small house of a scholar from the Jeoson dynasty.

Normally, Korean traditional house has at least 2 buildings: the man’s quarter and the woman’s quarter.

Beautiful slanting roof, isn’t it?

The exhaust chimney and the water fountain.

The interior. That checkered wooden floor is interesting.

Seoul is where the ancient meets the modern.

And in the end, instead of going to DD like my first plan, this Korean traditional fish-shaped waffle caught my attention more. I like this waffle because when it’s still hot, it’s a bit crunchy at the edges and the red beans inside it is sweet.

So actually, it cost me 1,000 won for the waffle, but spontaneous  snacks never counted, right?

 

Catch a Cold

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One of my fears finally happened. It’s been the 3rd day I catch a cold. This fragile body…ahh. But Seoul’s weather has been uncertain. Earlier this week was still so cold. Even snow suddenly came down on Saturday afternoon. But the last two days the weather is getting warmer. Today was 14C that I even got a little sweat arriving in the lab. The duet of panadol flu and redoxon fortimun didn’t work, so i had to go to campus clinic to get some real medicine. They give health service for free, just need to bring the student ID card. But they give the medicine per day. If i dont get better today yet, i can come back again tomorrow to continue my medication. I’ve been just being in the room for 2 whole days, mostly sleeping because i felt so dizzy. So it’s nice to be out a while today and the weather was nice even though the clouds cover the city whole day.

An Introduction to Korean Food #Part 1

The title sounds elaborate, and actually it does. Most Korean foods contained pork or about pork, so actually I can’t make a real introduction to Korean food. However, so far I try my best to let my self try some “safe” foods. I’m not gonna say “halal” because it’ll sound ridiculous, so “safe” here means the food will be about veggie and seafood or in Singapore it’s something with the tag: no pork no lard.

The basic thing about Korean culinary is probably the interesting fact that where ever it is, they always have main dish and side dish, and kimchi as side dish is a must. My Korean language class teacher said, “Most Korean eat kimchi everyday.” So it’s a fact.

Korean eat with spoon and chopstick. Looking for fork? better bring your own if you need it.

The first dish will be bibimbap. I love bibimbap. I asked my senior, Ahn Ji Hyoon, what bibimbap means. She said,”it means mix rice.” And so it is. If you go to restaurant that serves bibimbap, the appearance will mostly like this:

What I had was a basic bibimbap because it made from fresh veggies (cucumber slice, bean sprout, carrot, mushroom and other veggies) and half cooked egg. Some bibimbap can have tuna or beef or even pork. The other foods in the smaller plates are side dishes (yeah, that many). Rice came after that. They usually add some spicy chilly sauce on top of bibimbap, but not in this one. And when the rice came, you put all the rice into the bowl and just mix them all. The price for bibimbap varies. In Dongguk, It’s only 2,000-2,200 won, while outside it’s about 4,500 to 6,000 won, depends on the restaurant.

Ah, on the right hand side there’s a bowl of soup. Besides kimchi, Korean usually have soup. They’re like a pair, kimchi and soup. But kimchi and rice are compulsory while soup is semi-compulsory.

The next food is my favourite: tteokpokki – the spicy rice cakes

tteokpokki in Dongguk’s canteen maybe the cheapest with only 1,500 won (plus egg) because outside it should be around 2,500 and no egg. On the right hand side, the foods I don’t mix is mandoo. I can’t it mandoo because inside mandoo is pork. Why I like tteokpokki? They’re chewy, tasty and spicy :)

The last food in this posting will be this fish dish. I don’t really like this because it’s actually a fish soup. I don’r really like wet-fish kind of dish, because the fishy smell often stay. But that time it was for free, so…just tried to enjoy it. This food cost around 20,000 and it’s for around 4-5 persons.

As for snack, this biscuit is my favorite. Each biscuit has a layer of nice chocolate on top of it. If you like chocolate and biscuit, try this. It’s around 1,200-1350 won, depends on the place.

Lonely in the Crowd

I keep dreaming of being back home.

I was at home, with my beloved family, but sadly it’s only a dream.

Life is not getting easier, I don’t know why.

There’re so many limitations in food.

There’s a big limitation in language.

And getting myself into a new community is not that comforting either.

I miss eating without any hesitation.

I miss speaking without really have to think.

I miss being alone without feeling lonely.

I’m not sure if i’m gonna miss today in the future.

I know this sounds too sentimental. I hate it. But at least I write it down somewhere.

*I thought I have changed, but apparently I have not. Instead of feeling happy meeting new many friends, I ended up coming back to my place in a bad headache and feeling uneasy in my stomach.

Professor Jeon’s Class and the Rain on March 5th

In the beginning of the class, Prof.Jeon asked me, “do you know what date is it today?” Innocently I answered, “Today is the 5th of March.” I knew it’s not the answer he’s expecting, so then he explained: for Korean, today is called 경칩  (kyeong chib) means the shocking day for the hibernating animals, in simple words, it’s the beginning of spring.

But the fact is today’s weather still freezing. The rain is pouring almost the whole day.

Professor Jeon’s class is Sustainable Architecture. One of today’s presentations was about Korean traditional house built during the Jeoseon Dynasty, the building called Yeoyudang (여유당) the home of a famous philosopher during that era, Jeong Yak Yeong. It’s located in Jeollanam-do.

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For a traditional Korean house, having an even numbered spans (4) is not a common thing. This design rule is used in Japan, while in Korea they use the odd numbers: 3, 5,etc. And the part we see in the picture is the building for male, straightly facing the street –close to public space, while the female area is on the back of the house, enclosed by fences. Seeing the doors are folding open in the picture, means it was summer. The one my professor showed, the doors were close, because he just revisited the site last holiday. Learning from Yeoyudang facade is related to our theme of the class, sustainable facade. Prof. Jeon wanted us to learn about sustainable facades start from Korean traditional houses, before moving into modern buildings.

Despite the interesting lecture material, I was struggling to get his words because he spoke mostly in Korean and there are so many untranslated Korean terms for each part of the building –it’s very common to deal with untranslated native terms for vernacular architecture. Hope I can do well in this class.

Ah, this cool note is a gift from him. I use this note for his class. Prof. Jeon is gonna be my supervisory professor for the rest of my study in Dongguk.

When I off for goshiwon after the sunset, it was still raining and crazily freezing. But on my way I tried my best to capture these pictures with my samsung. I know, not good shots, hope next time my pocket camera will get better shots.

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